Belize Bound
Next up, head west to Belize. Sidebar; Rory needs to stay out of Guatemala for 90 days. Her cruising permit and the boats ability to stay in the country for two years resets after she is out for the 90 days. Our current intentions are to not return to Guatemala to keep her on the hard for summer season 2026; but the way the world is right now, one should have a backup plan in place. We enjoyed Belize last year and had some places that we had still wanted to see, so Belize would complete Rory’s remaining 90 day total and then some.
Still on Guanaja, Harmonium and Rory’s crew looked for a weather window in the next week or so to depart. We’d work our way to the West End of Roatan and wait for an E or NE wind, not too heavy, not too light to make the 90nm overnite passage. We had a great 30nm sail from Guanaja to Old Port Royal on the east end of Roatan and spent a few days relaxing there. It was here that Phil got D hooked on finding and ‘rendering’ a coconut. How to tell which kind, how ripe, how to cut one up, how to get the water out. D went out on a mission to find a coconut. Did good and the result was quite tasty, especially when you put the ‘rum in da coconut’ 😉
Traveled 12nm further west to anchor in French Harbor, a location close to the main town to do major provisioning. This anchorage was the epitome of the have and have nots. On one side was a very poor neighborhood and on the other side a yacht club. Wow, what a difference. After we were there for three nites a boat stopped by and suggested that it was not safe to be there! I suggested that Phil take D shopping for a machete so he would NOT have to use my kitchen knife for coconuts. Came back empty handed but found an awesome coffee shop. The anchorage is small, only fitting 2-3 boats if they play nice. There are a couple of large boats that need to traverse the area so one needs to be cognizant of that. D & I took a dinghy ride around the anchorage area. The Roatan Yacht Club is located here and has a few slips available as well as a decent bar & restaurant and a dive center. Friends of Phil & Krista’s, Connie & Steve, were staying in the marina and asked them to dinner. We were lucky enough to get an invitation extended to us. They were serving Lionfish. Lionfish is an invasive species from the Indo-Pacific region that is taking over the coral reefs in the Atlantic and Caribbean due to their carnivorous nature, the amount that they eat and the lack of natural predators. Why are they so prevalent? Gee, they’re a pretty fish and were popular in peoples aquariums, and some ‘escaped’ in the early 80’s. It is encouraged that anyone who spearfishes to take as many Lionfish that they can. Steve is an avid diver, goes pretty much every day thru the marina’s dive center. He’s my age!!! Lionfish have poisonous spines that have to be dealt with very carefully when cleaning the fish (also why they have no predators). Steve cleaned 24 of them for the meal! Connie cooked the fish, I made sweet potato salad, Krista brought appetizers and dessert (rum floats, YUM) and we had a feast. Phil brought a bottle of Botran 8 rum from Guatemala for ‘happy hour’. There were 6 people circled in Connie & Steve’s cockpit and the bottle made it around ONCE and it was empty!!! The epitome of rum suckers!
The next evening we were astounded to find out that we were under a tsunami warning due an earthquake that occurred south of the Cayman Islands. Gee, that’s different. The potential impact would be minimal but none the less one took it seriously. 1-3 meter waves were possible. We were in a very protected location but still you pay attention. Luckily nothing made it to the Honduran Bay Islands nor the mainland, or anywhere else for that matter.
Winds as they do during the spring season were forecasted to pick up in the next couple days and remain strong for 4. We left for the West End of Roatan which is literally the west end of the island as well as the name of a town. Prevailing winds are easterly/north easterly and the West End would provide good protection. The reef and inside waters are a national marine park and one can only use mooring balls. Getting inside the reef system to the mooring balls was a challenge, have only a narrow path w/a depth of 10ft in the middle; want calm and sunlit conditions, Rory did just fine. Most sailors prefer to anchor in blows but when you only have mooring balls as an option you make them work. You first find one, hook up to it w/thick lines, dive on the ‘structure’ to see if its pieces are solid, and its lines are not cut or frayed. Then you tie your own line from the bottom of the structure, in this case a screw anchor (2 of them) w/an eye on it, to your boat. Extra protection. Then if you’re D you dive on another mooring ball close by to see if it’s any better than the one you’re on.
Mooring ball secured; time for a trip to town to see what all the hype is from fellow cruisers about West End. Phil & Krista came and picked us up in their chariot (dinghy w/gas motor) which they have done on many occasion. Bo & us poke along, which is fine for us, but if one wants to get somewhere fast, nope. Something I’m not sure I’ve brought up before is determining where to ‘park’ your dinghy. Guidebooks give locations but some guidebooks are 10 yrs old. Online cruising forums such as Active Captain or now No Foreign Land are the best bet. Still, the actual location is sometimes hard to determine on a somewhat rudimentary map. We went to a bar/restaurant that had a dock in front of their establishment; asked and they said “sure”. One then does feel obligated to support the business by buying a beer, apps, burger, etc. We said we’d be back after checking out the town. The other thing I’m not sure I’ve brought up is how, where, when to get rid of garbage. First; you try to create the least amount as possible, second; you, in the right locations throw food scraps into the water (ie not in an anchorage), and third; you go for the hunt for a garbage can/truck/trailer. Again, the online forums help immensely stating where garbage bins are located, invaluable. There is nothing as gratifying as getting garbage off a boat; well, close second is having laundry done 😉 West End town was pretty cool. Relaxed vibe, great local shops and restaurants, a beach right downtown and it was touristy yes, but by locals and foreigners. It was pretty much geared for divers and snorkelers; having the reef close and it being 3nm long. Let alone the whole north side of the island was reef surrounded as well, however facing into the predominant winds, less likely to be snorkeled. It was getting late so back to our dinghy ‘bar’. Had some beers, an appetizer and split a burger. Our waitperson was awesome, she had a line for everything, was entirely upbeat and just a hoot. Wilma; Hurricane Wilma as she was called by her boss. Been there for 35 years. YES you read correctly, 35 years!!!
A couple of boats that we had been bumping into throughout the Bay Islands were also moored in West End. One was a little closer than we would like, directly behind us. When strong winds are predicted you, in a perfect world, want no one in front of you or no one behind you, less likelihood of running into/being run into if all goes to he!!. Anyways D invites the Canadian boat over for Happy Hour, then toodles over to the Dutch boat and invites them, and of course Krista & Phil come as well; SO 9 people on Rory for Happy Hour. You know, It worked. All brought food, drinks; D took the helm wheel off which is a pain in the butt but gives a lot more space. Hung out until dark then all went back to prep for the ‘blow’. Which presented itself in 25-30kt winds for a couple days. Protection from the hills in front of the mooring field and no waves made it manageable.