The Journey…


The Journey…

Week 7 – Buffalo to Youngstown, NY – NM 794 thru 843

Hmmm, where/how to start? As briefly alluded to in week 6 we had made a reservation to transit the Welland Canal in Canada, which by the way avoids having to take your boat down Niagara Falls, on August 12th. This was predicated by the fact that Canada would embrace us with open arms and boat lines as we went down the canal. We consulted with our St Lawrence seaway guru Sully on the timing of going out the end of the seaway the beginning of October. Possible, current makes you go faster, colder, weather more unpredictable but doable. D had the thought “If we could transit the canal earlier we’d gain a week of travel time down the St Lawrence”. This just after finding out that some friends from Annapolis were hiring a captain and crew to take their Bertram 38 thru the Welland to avoid height issues on the Western Erie Canal thru NY. Hey, we could hire a captain and crew to take Rory & Bo thru the canal early and we’d gain that extra time. So that’s just what we did and scheduled that transit for August 3rd, using the same captain and crew as our friends. Hiring the cap & crew w/a signed contract circumvented the border not being open yet, it was a ‘commercial’ crossing. And I need to mention – we could NOT be on the boat, correct, we could not be on the boat. Yikes to quote Rita Ann!

Hold that thought! This decision was made based on numerous calls to the Canadian Border Services Agency and St Lawrence Seaway staff about whether the 5 Canadian locks on the St Lawrence Seaway would be open to us when we got there after August 9th. Their answers were vague but didn’t see ‘why not’. One day of elation.

Quickly followed by a day of total dejection. Other friends received info that the Canadian border was yes opening to the US on Aug 9th but NOT to boaters. Air and land travel only. Plus there was the threat of the Border Service agents going on strike to settle a contract dispute. Gulp! More calls to the CBSA to verify and after the 5th call to an office located on the St Lawrence river finally got a clear answer. Border not open to boaters. The checkin process for boats is different and they were not prepared ‘for the foreseeable future’ that a system would be in place for checking in. Sigh…

So no Canada, no St Lawrence River and Seaway, no Gaspe Bay to meet friends, no french baguettes.

Frantic hustling ensued. The seemingly only 2 decisions left we could make was to go thru the entire Erie Canal system from Buffalo, or send Rory thru the Welland Canal to Oswego, NY to just take the eastern half of the Erie Canal, each of these choices involve taking down the mast on the boat and strapping it to the top of the boat or shipping down to Catskill NY. Height and depth issues can plague sailboats on the western Erie Canal due to low bridges and repaired washed out canal portions. So, the ending decision was to send Rory & Bo on their own adventure thru the Welland, pick them up in Youngstown, NY and take the eastern Erie Canal to the Hudson River ending up in New York City. “The series of possibilities”…

WELLAND CANAL, ON, CA – Rory & Bo’s adventure… They were picked up on Monday evening for a Tuesday transit of the canal which can take anywhere from 8-20 hours depending on freighter traffic and Canadian and US border control.

NIAGARA FALLS, NY – D & K’s adventure… We used the ‘captain’s’ car to get from Buffalo to Youngstown, then they had it to get back to Buffalo. Stayed in a hotel, very weird. Got provisioned up at a good grocery store so a side benefit. Last picture a deer swimming across the river channel that heads for Horseshoe Falls, ledge seen in rear of pic.

LEWISTON & YOUNGSTOWN, NY – Funky shop in Lewiston and Fort Niagara in Youngstown. A French military post since the 1600’s was captured by the British in 1759 and became a US Army post in 1796. The ‘French Castle’ is the oldest building, 1726, in the eastern interior of North America.



The Journey…

Quote – Deepak Chopra

“If you obsess over whether you are making the right decision, you are basically assuming that the universe will reward you for one thing and punish you for another. The universe has no fixed agenda. Once you make any decision, it works around that decision. There is no right or wrong, only a series of possibilities that shift with each thought, feeling, and action that you experience.” Deepak Chopra, The Book of Secrets.



The Journey…

Week 6 – Presque Isle State Park, Erie, PA to Buffalo, NY – NM 652 thru 794

PRESQUE ISLE STATE PARK, ERIE, PA. – Ok, so I feel like slime for taking s o l o n g in getting these next posts out, there’ll be an elaboration as to why in Week 7. So this is actual slime, a cyanobacteria algal bloom. NOAA sends out safety bulletins as to where and intensities. The bacteria releases a toxin that can pose a danger to human and pet health. It is most common on the west end of Lake Erie and is due to nutrient rich runoff from the Maumee and other rivers. We encountered this off and on from our ‘motorboat’ ride – think no wind – from Fairport Harbor, OH on our way to Erie, PA. We anchored in the Presque Isle State Park marina basin for 3 nights; took Bo to shore via oars let’s just say K needs practice and arm muscles, walked on the beach, took apart the head to fix a leaking seal and saw the most spectacular sunrise.
DUNKIRK, NY – We had an absolutely wondiferous spinnaker sail from Presque Isle; using the new ‘sock’ for the sail that I had sewn. Hey, it actually worked!!! We had the sail up for 83% of the 43 nm trip before the wind died. Motored the remainder to Dunkirk where about a mile out the wind picked up to 15-18 knots just before going into the marina. Always happened to us when we were in Manitowoc, why not everywhere else. The municipal marina had reserved us a spot along a wall in front of a metal projection and behind a large trawler. The space looked to be about 5 feet longer that our boat was. We both stated “NO WAY”! Perplexed and frustrated the only other option appeared to be to anchor in the harbor w/very little protection. The Dunkirk Yacht Club had a small marina in the harbor as well but one needs to be a validated member of typically your home port Yacht Club to stay in it as well as all other Yacht Clubs. So, we tried calling their phone number a couple times, no answer. Crap! K figures ok let’s try hailing them on the radio. A friendly voice answered and said that yes, we could tie up on their guest dock for the night. YAY! Stan and LaVonne helped us tie up, showed us the ‘club’ house and told us where to eat and ignored the fact that we were not Yachties. Did we get pictures of the classic looking club, Stan and LaVonne, the town of Dunkirk – nope. BTW we walked off the distance on the wall and it was 8 feet longer than our boat.
BUFFALO, NY – We ended up here because it is the typical staging area for boats planning to transit the Welland Canal to get to Lake Ontario and St Lawrence Seaway. We had reservations for the canal transit for Aug 12th, 3 days after Canada was to open up to us Americans. Much more on that in week 7.

The 33 mile trip from Dunkirk was joyous, stressful and wet. We started out sailing wing on wing for half of the trip. We also started out w/full knowledge of weather/storms coming in but it wasn’t supposed to occur till late afternoon, well after we got to Buffalo. An hour into the trip and the forecast changed, severe storms were coming and much sooner than expected. Yippee Skippee! As the storms approached we took down the sails, altered our course and waited for them to pass. As evidenced by the radar pic amount of ‘red’ there was a bit of rain. We slipped between 2 storm cells and only got very wet. The Erie Basin Marina in Buffalo is HUGE and very ROILY. The Niagara River funnels into the marina which has no outlet, therefore the waves and swell created are amazing; the water level rose by 2 ft in the span of an hour. We burned thru one dock line and pulled a cleat off the dock. NOT a place we’d stay again. The proximity to downtown Buffalo is just not worth it!

BELOW: A view of the marina, ones of Buffalo’s dwntn gardens, K eating a knish at the Saturday farmers market, Beef on Weck-a Buffalo tradition served w/a horseradish condiment guaranteed to clean out your nose hairs, the bread mother which I thought I had killed by not feeding her for a month and he 1st loaf of bread baked on the boat-evidence I did NOT kill the mother.



The Journey…

Quote – Mark Twain



The Journey…

Musing – SS

Our good friend Sandy S. has been finding similarities with our journey in a 1941 children’s book, ‘Paddle-to-the-Sea. The story follows a wooden canoe on its progress from the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean. The illustrations are incredible.



The Journey…

Week 5 – Cleveland to Fairport, OH – NM 575 thru 652

CLEVELAND. OH – We sailed here from Put-in-Bay in just under 8.5 hours, we seem to choose the choppiest days to sail, but manage to make good time doing so. Oh well. The marina that we stayed at was downtown Cleveland directly in front of the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. Oh, and close to the Tequila Bar!
We walked 2 miles to this wonderful market and picked about 3 items from different vendors to eat for breakfast. Found the best Asiago cheese bread EVER! I realize that I haven’t spent much time talking about food. A few of you would be questioning why-nothing really special found to date. Am looking to step up the game in the coming travels. Inspiration to cook on the boat is good but I need to step that up a notch as well. Pre-planning meals for day passages is very beneficial. Did I mention that we are both Geminis?

Ok, I could have added 903 pics from the R&R Hall of Fame but I’ll spare you. Jethro Tull’s flute and outfit, K’s fave college listen. An outfit of Prince’s. Keith Richard’s guitar-he was very sentimental about it, artwork done quote “while on acid”. Eddie Van Halen’s guitar-reconfigured by himself, painted it black thought it was boring, taped it up and added red & white. Museum was great if not a bit overwhelming with memorabilia ‘stuff’.
Not something you see every day in a marina!

We went to a brewery with a great vibe, the ambiance and food were good, oh, as was the beer. We spent our last day in Cleveland in the marina on Rory, weather was horrible thus delaying our departure by a day.
FAIRPORT HARBOR, OH – No this is not an island; it is a group of powerboats about 2 miles long lined up to watch a ‘boat’ race, I will say a ‘dick boat’ race-the loud and obnoxious ones. The comings and goings of these boats from their marinas made the water extremely choppy to traverse. This after dodging and weaving thru a sailboat regatta just after leaving Cleveland. We again bobbed and jostled the entire way to Fairport Harbor; winds were great the sea state was very confused. D said “like being in a washing machine”. We anchored in the harbor for 4 nites with the intent of 2. One nite was lost due to waiting for a ‘tour guide’ and the other due to weather and 4-6′ waves. Sunset and sunrise from the anchorage.
What one does when ones milk frother bites the dust.

Below is the real reason we went to Fairport Harbor; it is the home of Tartan Yachts and we had an opportunity to tour it. Rory was built here in 2006. I know, too many pics but we were enthralled with the place. The one directly below is Hull #1 of their production in 1960, a Tartan 27. The rest are varying boat ‘parts’ in the making along with masts. The gentleman working on the inside of a boat crafted the interior of our boat. The other gentleman, our tour guide, is searching for the file folder for our boat info. This is a very hands on production facility, not a lot of tech or ‘fast’ types of building methods. They have a LOT of orders for new Tartan’s but can only commit to about one a month right now; yes you guessed it staffing issues.
And the coup de grace of the tour?!?!? A bottle of rum with 2 cups celebrating the 60th Anniversary of Tartan Yachts. It is being saved for a special occasion…
WE SHOULD have however drank the whole thing the afternoon after the tour; the winds picked up and made the anchorage horribly bouncy, We spent the nite getting thrown around in the berth and the whole next day trying to get one foot down before you were thrown across the boat. Marina was too small to accommodate Rory so we stayed on anchor. Yep, boating life is SO glamorous.



The Journey…

Quote – Huey Lewis & the News

Excerpt from a song by Huey Lewis and the News.