The Journey…


The Journey…

Bahamas – Wind?!? What?!?

February 16, 2022

Wind, a requirement for sailing, correct? The more than obvious desirable propulsion method to get a ‘sailboat’ from Point A to Point B. Previous posts have dealt w/the subjects of wind forecasting, too much wind, too little wind and too directionally challenging wind. But really what is wind? According to the National Geographic Society it is “the movement of air caused by the uneven heating of the Earth by the sun.” Added by Science News for Students: “Changes in air pressure are what lead to wind. Wind, IE the flow of air, is Mother Nature’s way of equalizing differences in air pressure. Air pressure describes the weight of air over a given site. It is determined by that parcel of air’s temperature, volume and density.” Expanding air produces regions of high pressure, contracting air creates areas of low pressure. Wind happens when air moves from regions of high to low pressure; the bigger the difference between the pressures the faster the air will move. Then you can get into the complicated topic of different types of wind or atmospheric flow. I’ll refrain from that.

Why this diatribe on wind? For the last 8 months to the date D&I have dealt w/wind, in various shapes, strengths, directions etc. It pretty much has dictated our day to day existence as it were. It factors into just about every decision we make; well, maybe not the type of sundowner to make, unless maybe it’s a ‘Dark & Stormy’. It impacts where, when, how we go places. It also has a more subliminal impact on our moods at the moment. From Tesh.com “Changes in the barometric pressure connected to strong winds can cause headaches, joint pain, fatigue and irritability.” Possibly due to the way our joints and blood vessels shrink/swell as the pressure changes. DING DING DING-we have a winner-irritability-K, runner up-fatigue-D. Add a bit of stress anxiety to the mix and it can get interesting.

I bring this up because for the last 48 hours the wind has been blowing like stink (25-35kn) here at our anchorage in Elizabeth Harbor, Georgetown, Exumas, BS. We got our guests, Jodi & Dan, on board just before the blow ramped up Monday am. They needed to take a water taxi the 2.5m to Rory because the wind/waves would have swamped our poor undersized dinghy Bo and drenched Jodi & Dan. We’ve all been doing quite well in regards to our moods probably because we’ve been catching up on each of our lives adventures. Every once & while K will state that she is so sick of the wind and warns others of an impending case of the crabbies. We’ve been taking naps to fend off fatigue and generally taking life’s pace down a couple of notches. We’ve also have had creative cocktails, great meals, and almost vicious games of Dominos and Cribbage. Not to rub it in but K beginner lucked in Dominos and the ‘girls’ kicked the ‘boys’ butt in Cribbage. Rematch later today.

Getting to Georgetown, missed that part. We left inspirational Jack’s Bay Cove to anchor 5.5nm south by Oven Rock on Great Guana Cay. Rory looks good in paradise doesn’t she? Had some strong winds a couple days and took one day to hike the island and find the ‘cave’. Cool; we also continued down the path to an idyllic looking cove beach on the Exuma Sound side of the island. The end of the path along w/the beach was covered in garbage, mostly plastic; and I mean covered. You hear about it, read about it but until you actually see it in reality it becomes real. I was quite depressed, angry, and saddened about it. D had steeled himself up for it and had less of a reaction, however equally angry about it. This was just one cove, just how much garbage exists everywhere blows the mind. We as a planet HAVE to do something about it. Picture does NOT portray how much junk is on the beach. More on that to come.

Arrival in Georgetown. Went thru our first ‘cut’, comparable in difficulty to inlets on the Eastern US coast, in the Exuma Island chain Galliot; having an easy time of it. Sailed gloriously for 7nm then motored the rest of the 48 nm. We anchored next to our friends Mark & Cheryl M near Elizabeth Island; this being our 5th meetup w/them. It seems surreal to me that we were slipmates in Manitowoc Marina for 3yrs and now we are in the Bahamas w/them. We had a wonderful time together. They are now working their way south to the Ragged Islands, BS.

Where we are, closer to Cuba than US.

8 months into it; 3,241NM, 387 engine hours, 161 of 239 days on the hook, lovin’ it; mostly 😉



The Journey…

Bahamas – Where does the time go?

February 6, 2022

Inspiration; how does one acquire it? When will you know the moment it hits you on the head? Where will you be? Why does it matter? Who really cares?

Honestly for me, inspiration has generally come easy; I would look at my surroundings, the people I’m with, the beauty in nature and find at least a small spark to get & keep me going. As of late I have been almost overwhelmed by all of the above and yet no spark was lit. That is until yesterday. Yesterday D & I went on our 1st ‘official’ snorkeling expedition. Official because it involved getting into Bo, throwing the snorkel gear in, tootling over to some rocks, dropping Bo’s anchor, gearing up and hoisting oneself over the side of the dinghy.

I’ve been a reluctant snorkeler due to the fact that I could never really see underwater, blind as a bat as it were; depth perception was non-existent. Now I have prescription goggles and wow, what a difference that makes. D led me thru a channel between rocks, ‘seeing’ the plant growth on the rocks, colorful fish below, a turtle (I missed it) and the sunlight coming thru the turquoise waters, yep, inspiration. Pictures? Sorry, still trying to determine whether our older-than-dirt GoPro is waterproof. Next time.

“Where” is anchored off Jack’s Bay Cove midway down the Exuma chain of islands. And it matters because one needs to live life full of inspiration & being in the moment, it’s what keeps us going. And I care!

So, I better back up a bit and quickly fill in the gaps as to how we got to Jack’s Bay Cove.

January 14, 2022

  • We passed our Covid tests and acquired our Bahamian Health Visa’s, which without one, one doesn’t get into the country. Also acquired our preliminary cruising permit for Rory & us.
  • We had one more planning session w/Mark & Cheryl with whom we were to sort of ‘buddy’ boat ‘The Crossing’ from Lake Worth, FL to Great Harbor Cay, Berry Islands, Bahamas.
  • We readied Rory & Bo for and early start the next day for ‘The Crossing’.
  • We ‘tried’ to get some sleep!

January 15/16, 2022

Anchor up at 0700 and exited Lake Worth inlet at roughly 0730. Mark & Cheryl were a bit ahead of us; we did radio checkins on the hour, kinda nice knowing you are not totally alone out there. Motoring was the method of movement half of the way and we motor-sailed the rest. Our wind prognostications proved to be a little too much and directionally challenging, and the 2nd half of ‘The Crossing’ was the absolute worst we’ve ever had. I’ll just leave it at that. Had celebratory cocktails on Mark & Cheryl’s boat, that yes, we’re in the Bahamas, baby!

January 17-20, 2022

We spent 3 nites in Great Harbor Cay Marina and 2 nites anchored outside of it. Had to get all logistics taken care of. Clearing the boat into the country, most of which was done online beforehand, clearing us into the country and going thru Customs. This is done in most countries by having the captain of the boat go to shore and meet w/the officials. Everyone else must stay on the boat till cleared. In the Bahamas the ‘captain of the boat’ in the documentation is ‘Master’, lets just say that pisses me off a bit 😉

January 21, 2022

Mark & Cheryl began their trek down to Georgetown at the southern end of the Exuma Island chain. They were to pick up their niece and her family the 1st week of February. D & I began our trek to New Providence Island (Nassau location) to pick up our niece and her husband to be w/us for a few days. We all parted ways and vowed that we’d meet up again somewhere around Georgetown.

D&I had a wonderful 25nm sail to anchor out in Soldier Cay. One idyllically hopes that one can have an anchorage to oneself but that probably is not going to happen. There was only one other boat here which was a consolation. They ventured over in their dinghy to say ‘hey’ and state “weren’t you next to us in the Annapolis marina?” Yep, we were. Rick and his new to him boat ‘Raindancer’ were in Annapolis getting ready to head to Florida and beyond. Spent some time in Annapolis talking about the adventures we were both on. He picked up crew in Bimini and is heading down the Exumas and on to the Caribbean. A quintessential beach fire was planned for the evening and we brought the barracuda we caught that day and a tuna they caught. What a glorious evening!

The moth that decided it needed my beer more than I did is a Black Witch moth; and depending on what country you’re in has different connotations. In the Bahamas it is a ‘money moth’ bringing good fortune; in Mexico it it the ‘death moth’ needing no explanation; we’ll run w/the Bahamian version. The blurry last picture is a nurse shark swimming around the boat. It and its buddy, a lemon shark seemed to think that we were going to feed them. They showed up about 15 minutes after D dove on the anchor to check its set. Yikes, to quote Rita Ann.

January 22/23, 2022

Yet again another marvelous 24nm sail down to the tip of the Berry Islands and Whale Cay. Spent 2 nites here and enjoyed going to the beach, doing an introductory snorkel session; never did find the ‘wreck’, and hanging out reading books. And witnessing the best sunset of the trip yet. And oh, we got “rocked” out of that anchorage on the 2nd night with unexpected winds.

January 24-29, 2022

Time was spent on New Providence Island awaiting the arrival of our niece & nephew-in-law. Had yet another beautiful sail getting there, spinnaker only. Anchored in West Bay on the west side of the island (duh) for 2 nites before heading over to the east side and anchoring off Athol Island also for 2 nites. It was here that we got the very sad news that our niece & husband needed to cancel. They were so focused on themselves not getting Covid they never figured that any of their children would get it. Sigh… We/they were SO bummed! They are loosely rescheduled for now. So, Plan C gets implemented. We head to a marina on the SE side of the island to ride out a one day nasty NE blow that was coming thru. We rode it out, had a wonderful meal out, got some provisions and D spent the most ever on diesel oil for the boat. We decided to forge our way south a week earlier to get to and explore the Exumas. Ironically enough, 2 days later Mark & Cheryl were contacted by their niece and were notified by them that they were cancelling; the husband was exposed and contracted Covid. This is the way of the world @the moment. 🙁

January 30-February 6, 2022

Exuma Island Chain

Had a very nice 38nm downwind sail from Palm Cay Marina to Norman’s Cay in the northern Exumas with only a headsail out. Navigation is quite precise & easy utilizing the Bahamas Explorer Charts on AquaMap (will cover that in a separate post). Got to Norman’s and realized that we had planned exceedingly well for the wind for sailing but not for anchoring. It was wind against swell all nite and K swore quite a bit. Got up the next morning (because we were lying down, not actually sleeping) and got outta dodge to find a better protected anchorage since the winds were supposed to be strong from the E for several days. We found Sampson Cay just north of Staniel Cay which is a “medium” sized town known for their island of swimming pigs. Not our cup of tea. Didn’t even get off the boat it was blowing that hard (D did a short dinghy tour to discover amazing beauty). We’re very protected however w/little rolling action. Boat projects commenced. Next stop was Black Point Settlement, a small village w/a few restaurants, a market and a killer baker of coconut bread, Peermon; you walk up to her house, knock, and go pick out your bread. Smells heavenly! We set a record on diesel oil cost, why not the bread also! A laundromat rivaling any in the states was greatly appreciated. So, that gets us to Jack’s Bay Cove and the site of ‘inspiration’.

And so it goes… NM 3,185



The Journey…

The Bahamas

1/27/22

D and I have to pinch ourselves each and every day since we’ve been here, 11 days now. Anytime we were questioned on to what’s the ultimate end goal to your sailing adventure we’d respond “we’re not really sure but we know we want to get to the Bahamas, then we’ll figure it out from there”. So now we’re here; and we’ve got to say it’s glorious. The water IS as blue and clear as noted, the sand IS perfect white powder, the people ARE as friendly as stated, and EVERYTHING is on ‘Island Time’. We are so very thankful for the opportunity to be here and strive not to take a moment of it for granted.

I hope to capture the Bahamas as we see them, each island group at a time. Also hope to share the thoughts of our guests as they come to visit us and Rory & Bo during the next few months; starting off w/our niece Maureen (AKA Moonie) and her husband Matt (AKA M.A.T.) coming to New Providence Island 1/31. Followed closely by our good friends and travel buddies Jodi & Dan; Jodi hails from my Dayton’s era so we’ve known each other awhile. Next up is a visit in March by my forever friend and soul sister Chris(AKA college roommate) and her friend Tony. She has been thru absolute hell this past year and we’re are going to make the Bahamas a relaxing, fun, food filled, awesome adventure.

So as I(we) go thru a reset; updates to the blog will happen sporadically, sooner or later, as the moment hits us, or as cellular coverage dictates. Thanks for hanging in there.



The Journey…

Week 29 & 30 – St Augustine to Palm Beach, FL – NM 2634 thru 2852

The quest to get south. Warmth! When you’re from the Upper Midwest what is truly warm enough? 32, 54, 65, 76, 81, or 88 degrees? It’s all a point of relativity as to where you are right? Being in Florida the parameters change; ability to wear shorts & short sleeves, K not having to wear wool day or nite, sandals mandatory, having the ports & hatches open to ventilate the boat; all become the hopeful norm. Not quite warm enough in St Augustine?!? Time to keep going south! South then it was, taking a 220nm route to Palm Beach with a stop at Fort Pierce which broke up a 2 night passage.

Ft Pierce, FL. We motored all but 35 miles of the 167nm trip and were treated to a calm, moonless evening full of bioluminescence sparkles in the boat wake. Really wish a picture would take, it looks like what our friend Brett calls it “pixie dust”. The sun rose and D got out the fishing lines. The first pic is a continuation of detangling the hand reel. This CF occurred in St Augustine and as we were trying to untangle it our boating buddy Bob stated, “hope it doesn’t end in a divorce 😉 So with the fishing reel cast, given to us as a parting gift from our good friend Charlie, we caught a Little Tunny; identified by Charlie as well. First fish of the trip, hard to believe! Tasted great!

And what is that?!? K smiling on a passage?!?

We sat in Ft Pierce for 5 days waiting for a Nor’ easter to blow thru, the initial squall line in 1st pic. While waiting we decided to give the new Rainman watermaker a test, better in FL where could get fixed if needed to rather than in the Bahamas. Worked great. Kinda cool to be able to make your own drinkable water from salt water, albeit w/the use of the generator. We also reconnected w/our friends Mary & Kevin; w/whom we were stranded in Little Falls, NY for 2 wks; caught up on all of our adventures for the last few months, their trip to Ireland and our trip to Ft Pierce. Kevin then took us to the ultimate in boating surplus supply stores – OMG!!! This was the size of a Costco, any part you could ever imagine was in this building or outside of it; you just needed to know exactly what you needed. Staff incredibly helpful.

Palm Beach, FL. Final staging ground before the crossing to the Bahamas. Involved many trips in Bo to get diesel fuel, groceries, more diesel fuel, more groceries; you get it. Anchored in Lake Worth (D calls Lake Net Worth, BIG boats & BIG homes) which probably had 200 mostly sailboats anchored there, waiting for the appropriate weather window to do the crossing. While wandering Palm Beach we came upon an art garden, a welcome respite from the bustling roads in town. The homes have the most meticulous hedges we have ever seen, perfectly trimmed; and the method, these guys were doctors. We met up w/friends Bob & Linda and Mark & Cheryl a couple times, also in Lake Worth, to discuss strategy & timing for the crossing. Pic of Bob & Linda because Bob set his alarm for ‘time to take a selfie’ so did. Did not do that w/Mark & Cheryl, therefore no pic 🙁



The Journey…

Update & Apology – 1/16/2022

UPDATE

Well we made it to our theoretical end destination – the Bahamas!!! WHOOOHOOO! Theoretical since we seem to have no plans beyond here. We plan to spend 3 months here exploring as many islands or as few as possible, hey we may find a couple we really like & spend a lot of time on each. Then who knows…

All I know is that I am so proud of D & I for getting this far and more proud of Rory and her ability to be our safe conveyance.

This says it all!

Where we are.

APOLOGY

For those of you who somewhat routinely follow our blog I am profusely sorry for the lack of posts; basically 2 1/2 weeks behind. Not sure why, it seems as if I have ‘blog writers block’ if that’s such a thing. I feel that the posts have become somewhat blasé and basic so I haven’t even started a post. So, I will kick myself in the behind and look for some inspiration here in the Bahamas to start back up again. Set a refresh button or such. Thanks to all of you who read these.



The Journey…

Week’s 27 & 28 – St Augustine, FL – NM 2634

Week’s 2 & 3, St Augustine, FL. Week 2 we moved to a mooring field; it’s generally more secure than being at anchor, though not always. Week 3 we went into the St Augustine Municipal Marina which provides electricity and water to get projects done; it also provides easier access to town. We used this time to do boat projects, sight see, have meals out, fix our ‘car’ breakdown and get together w/boating friends.

Boat Projects.There are a myriad of boat projects to do varying from mounting & connecting the port side solar panel, to going up the mast to check rigging, to repairing a T-valve on the coolant system. And so on. Some can be done while we are in the mooring field while others will be done while in the marina plugged into shore power. All interspersed w/maintenance projects, mainly battling rust on the exterior and mold on the interior. Both will be ongoing ad infinitum.

D tackling the port solar panel installation. The fight against mold. Assorted.

Sight seeing. Flagler College; Henry Flagler liked Spanish influenced architecture. Memorial Presbyterian Church established in 1824. The Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fortification in the US. And the oldest surviving Spanish Colonial dwelling dating from the early 1700’s. Flowers in December.

Eating out. A fun food truck serving great fish sandwiches and beet fries located along the water with appropriate signs; the Blue Hen Cafe-wonderful breakfast; and an unexpected find on the way to a grocery store, the Green Papaya Thai restaurant.

Car breakdown. Whilst we were at anchor and out in the mooring field we used Bo to get back and forth from town. He hauled groceries, laundry and D & I. One trip in, Atom Ant (the outboard motor), died 100 ft from the dock. It reluctantly started up, we docked and went into town to run errands. Not so much luck on the return trip. I swear D pulled on the starter cord for the outboard 100+ times – nothing, crap! After inspecting the spark plug and fuel lines, which looked ok; still nothing, crap! Nothing, crap! A fellow boater, Walter, dinghied D back to the boat to get some tools, still nothing, crap! Our mooring field neighbors, Mike and Susan, offered us a tow back to our boat. That is one thing that we love about the boating community; anyone sincerely offers help; anyone! The underlying rule is that you pay it forward at some time.

So back to Bo. Took Atom Ant off of Bo and D took him to a repair shop via the water taxi and Mark M’s rental car. Not less than 20 minutes later we received the call “the outboard is fixed”! What’d you do? “Nothing”, crap; really. He took off the spark plug, checked the fuel lines (as did D) and attached a fuel line. The damn thing started on the 1st pull! D was devastated, but happy it started as Mark tormented D 😉 Apparently the gentleman in the repair shop was a hoot. Initial phone conversation w/him D stated “I’ll drag the motor in tomorrow”; guy emphatically responds “Don’t drag it in, I’ll have more repairs to do”. D then stated at end of conversation, “ok then I’ll drop it off tomorrow”; again guy responds “don’t drop it anywhere, I can’t promise that I can fix it”. When D asked “how much do I owe you”? Response was “I charge $110/hour; hmmmm, 10 bucks”.

Boating friends. As one travels down the coast to ‘get someplace south’ either FL, the Keys or the Bahamas one tends to crisscross paths with other like minded boaters. You watch them on AIS (automatic identification system) which shows on your chart plotter, similar tech as to how you can see Rory on Marine Traffic. You remark, hey we saw that boat on AIS going around Cape Hatteras and in Charleston, or we’ve met them in the Severn Marina or you go all the way back to Manitowoc Marina w/people who will be going to the Bahamas from St. Augustine. When they end up in the same location as you, you go over and introduce yourself and let the stories flow. Which then turns into going out for meals, sundowners on boats and more conversations. Again, the best reason for this boating ‘lifestyle’; the people you meet. Right now I regret that I took absolutely NO pictures of the people we got together with and I’m ok w/it. Kinda ruins the ‘being in the moment’ thing to all of sudden take a picture. Oh well.

Mark & Cheryl M-from Manitowoc, WI (Paradigm Shift), had their boat next to us in the Manitowoc marina, great people who have given us wonderful advice on the Bahamas and all things boating; have had many conversations over the years in Manitowoc and are good good friends; D & Mark both engineers (bad for Cheryl & I), Cheryl’s a gifted artist; are going to the Bahamas.

Sinisa & Kat B-from Canada (BiBi 1), met them and had multiple sundowners w/them in the Severn Marina in VA; they caught up to us in St Augustine and we viewed all their completed boat projects and shared a wonderful happy hour repast; just made it to the Bahamas.

John & Diane B-from Annapolis, MD (Owl Moon), met them in Fernandina Beach and again here; they have Tartan 4300 sailboat and us Tartan people stick together; went to dinner w/them and shared boat stories. These two are pickle ball crazy; going to leave their boat in St Augustine, go on a couple of 2020 delayed charter sails and then head back to Annapolis.

Bob & Linda B-from Bay City, MI; (Tiger Lily) had seen them on AIS many times but were never able to connect until St Augustine; went to a brewery w/them & Linda’s parents who were here for the holidays, wonderful people; their boat travel route pretty much mimicked ours, therefore great stories; both Bob & Linda engineers, K screwed; going to the Bahamas.

Will hopefully meet up w/those going to the Bahamas at some point, but one never plans for it; it’ll just happen.

St Augustine’s holiday spirit.

And last but not least K’s greatest accomplishment while here – a haircut after 7 months – now my hair is shorter than D’s. And no it will not look like the last 2 pics; no hairdryer and not volumes of hair product.



The Journey…

MERRY XMAS!!!

Wishing you and yours a very Happy Holiday season & to bringing in the New Year with hope and determination.

Merry Xmas!

FYI. I will be combining Weeks 27 & 28 together into one post on St Augustine.